The country west of the Darling River is considered by many to be the beginning of the real outback. On this immense sweep of saltbush, sand dunes and gibber plains which stretches toward the famous Corner Post where the boundaries of Queensland, South Australia and New South Wales meet, a few remote homesteads and small bush settlements are the only signs of human habitation in an otherwise harsh and intimidating landscape. Here, the red kangaroo, emu and wedge-tailed eagle reign supreme, the heat shimmers almost continuously off the burnt red rock, and the mulga bushes whistle in the steady breeze. In most respects, this country remains just as it was when the first European explorers arrived more than 150 years ago.

Although visitor facilities in the Corner Country are limited, two important national parks, Sturt and Mutawintji, offer a wide range of activities as well as fascinating insights into the region's history and ecology. Furthermore, well-prepared and experienced off-road travellers can enjoy a wide range of exciting 4WD tours through some of the most spectacular outback scenery on the continent.

The Corner is an especially remote and hostile environment. Travel in summer is best avoided as the flies are intolerable, the heat unbearable, and the risk of dehydration very real. Autumn through to spring is much more appropriate, but travellers arriving in winter should be prepared for cold nights.

Although many of the area's roads are dirt tracks, most can, with care, be travelled in a normal family car. However, a 4WD vehicle is safer and will allow wider exploration. On all trips, travellers should carry extra water, food supplies and basic vehicle spares.

Sturt National Park

Covering 310,000 ha (766,000 acres) along the Queensland and South Australia borders, Sturt National Park protects the Corner itself and some of the most desolate but impressive country in the region. Although the parkÕs major attraction is the vastness of its outback scenery, it offers much else besides. Visitors will encounter some of the continent's most impressive concentrations of wildlife, including huge kangaroo and emu populations, and come across historical sites including the remnants of the explorers' camps at Depot Glen and Fort Grey and pastoralists' stations such as Olive Downs and Mount Wood.

Information on the park is available locally from the National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) office in Tibooburra. Make sure you pick up a leaflet on the excellent self-guided drive tour, which loops for 110 km (68 miles) via Mount Wood and Olive Downs, and provides a fine introduction to the park's landscapes and wildlife. In particular, it takes in magnificent examples of Sturt's most distinctive landforms -long, flat-topped hills known as 'jump-ups'.

Near the park entrance, a short trail leads from Dead Horse Gully camp site through granite boulders and beefwood trees, and offers fine views of nearby abandoned goldfields. At Mount Wood and Olive Downs, short tracks lead to the tops of jump-ups, providing panoramic vistas.

Sturt National Park lies 330 km (205 miles) north of Broken Hill along the Silver City Highway, which is partially sealed. There is also an unsealed road from Bourke and Wanaaring. Both routes are impassable after rain, so check conditions locally before you set off.

Despite its isolation, the park caters well for visitors, with three excellent camp sites, all providing water, toilets and barbecues. These are located at Dead Horse Gully, 1 km (0.6 miles) from Tibooburra; just outside the old homestead of Olive Downs; and near Fort Grey on the western fringe of the park. A small camping fee applies and should be deposited in the honesty tins provided at all sites.

Mutawintji National Park

Located 130 km (85 miles) north-east of Broken Hill, Mutawintji National Park also protects splendid outback scenery, here dominated by imposing sandstone outcrops, but is best known for its magnificent Aboriginal rock art. Paintings, stencils and engravings scattered throughout the Byngnano Range constitute a fascinating record of the rich culture that thrived here prior to European settlement.

The most important assemblage of rock art is located at Mutawintji Historic Site in the west of the park, which was placed under permanent protection in 1967, before the surrounding area became a national park in the 1970s. Visitors to the historic site must be accompanied by an accredited guide. To get the best out of a visit to Mutawintji, join one of the regular tours run by the NPWS and usually led by an Aboriginal guide. Contact the NPWS office in Broken Hill for more information.

Visitors can explore other parts of the park at their leisure. At Homestead Creek, a number of excellent walking trails offer insights into local Aboriginal history. The Thaakaltjika Mingkana Walk, which leads to a cave decorated by Aboriginal paintings, is only 20 minutes return and wheelchair accessible. The 30-minute Rockholes Loop takes in Aboriginal engravings and views of the Rockholes, Homestead Gorge and the Byngnano Range.

A more challenging walking track, the three-hour Homestead Walk wends past craggy cliffs around Homestead Creek then heads into enchanting Homestead Gorge. The three-hour Byngnano Walk affords spectacular views of the gorges along the range, but should be attempted by fit walkers only.

Look for euros and rock-wallabies among the boulders and red and western grey kangaroos in open areas. Shinglebacks and bearded dragons often bask on rocks, while birds, including emus and fairy martins, frequent the park's many waterholes.

It takes about two hours to drive to the park from Broken Hill along a dry gravel road. This route frequently becomes impassable to all vehicles after rain. Roads also connect Mutawintji with White Cliffs and Tibooburra. Within the park, a dirt road leads to the walking tracks and to Mutawintji Historic Site.

There is a pleasant camping ground at Homestead Creek which sits amid shady river red gums and has firewood, toilets and bore water (but no drinking water). The site operates on a first-come, first-served basis and a small fee applies.

This challenging 1171-km (727-mile) 4WD expedition from Broken Hill takes in all the major sights of the Corner. The starting point is the Silver City's main thoroughfare, Argent Street. Head east here and follow the signs for Tibooburra and Mutawintji. About 3 km (1.9 miles) from the town centre, turn onto the Silver City Highway.

After 55 km (34 miles), you'll see the turn-off to Mutawintji National Park and White Cliffs on the right. Another 61 km (38 miles) further on, you'll come to the side road to Mutawintji, which is 9 km (5.6 miles) away. Try to plan your visit to the park to coincide with one of the excellent NPWS guided tours of its superb rock art.

When you are ready to move on from Mutawintji, return to the White Cliffs road and head north. Drive 26 km (16 miles), turn right, then turn right again after another 48 km (30 miles). At a major junction 23 km (14 miles) further on, or 213 km (132 miles) from Broken Hill, you join the main White Cliffs - Tibooburra road. Turn right here and after 42 km (26 miles) you reach White Cliffs. At the second crossroads, turn right to reach the town centre.

Founded in 1890, White Cliffs was the first commercially viable opal field in Australia and by 1899 its population had grown to 4500. To avoid the heat, miners built dwellings underground. Eventually, there were also underground hotels and eating houses, as well as dozens of underground grog shanties. By all accounts, it was a wild place.

Although more tranquil today, White Cliffs still has the feel of a pioneer town. Its permanent population of 100 or so swells in the winter months when hopeful prospectors return to continue their search for the stones that may make their fortune.

There are two hotels in the town as well as a camping ground at the Opal Pioneer Reserve. The pub can also supply fuel, while the general store opposite has fuel and supplies.