The most cosmopolitan of Australian cities, Darwin is Australia's only tropical capital. It is closer to much of Asia than it is to much of southern Australia -Jakarta is closer than Brisbane, and Singapore is closer than Hobart. The city sits on the eastern shore of Port Darwin, a convoluted inlet on the Beagle Gulf, itself an inlet of the Timor Sea. The centre of the city and the port are on a wide isthmus of land between Frances Bay and Fannie Bay, and most of the suburbs are either directly to the north, or spread along the Stuart Highway. There are just under 100,000 people in the greater metro area, making Darwin the smallest capital city in Australia but what it lacks in population, it makes up for in variety.

There are more than 50 ethnic groups in the city, and a large number of these have been here almost from the very first days of settlement. Aboriginal people have been living here for 40,000 years or more, of course, and Darwin is home to a vibrant Aboriginal culture, with Aboriginal language, art and craft, dance and music an everyday affair. And Macassan che-de-mer fishermen from the islands of modern-day Indonesia have probably been sailing this coast for the last few hundred years.

There is a host of things to do in and around the city. For those who enjoy looking into the past there are the old Town Hall and Government House (1883), the Court House and Police Station (1884) and Hotel Darwin, originally called the Palmerston (1883).A wander around the Fannie Bay Gaol, which was in use from 1883 until 1979, gives visitors an insight into conditions endured by prisoners here. There are also many reminders of World War II, including the Oil Storage Tunnels (some open to the public), the anti-submarine boom net tower and the East Point gun emplacements.

For those who love local markets, try the Mindil Beach Sunset Market, with its local and regional handicrafts and food stalls, and the Parap Market. DarwinÕs oldest market is the Rapid Creek Markets, held every Sunday morning -food lovers will be overwhelmed by the choices. There is a wide variety of restaurants in the city, including many kinds of Asian restaurants, plus Mongolian, Greek, Latin American and Australian (with buffalo, camel, barra, mud crabs and more on the menu).

The city is also a fine base from which to explore the Top End. The Darwin Crocodile Farm and the Territory Wildlife Park, and the Windows on the Wetlands, are on the Arnhem Highway, 60 km (37 miles) south-east of Darwin. A little further along the highway are the jumping crocodiles of the Adelaide River. If you want to see a croc up close, this is the spot! There are also the Marrakai and Fogg Dam Conservation Reserves with their water birds, and the Wildman and Shady Camp Reserves, which are well-known fishing spots. Offshore are the Tiwi Aboriginal islands of Bathurst and Melville. There is a great cultural experience to be had on the islands; tours run from Darwin regularly.

The fishing in Darwin is brilliant. There are plenty of places to throw a line in and you can catch barra almost everywhere. Close to the port there are wrecks that act as artificial reefs, and around these you will find barra, cod, black jewfish, tuna, queenfish and Spanish mackerel.

Special annual events that take place in Darwin include the Hummingbird Corroboree Park Challenge fishing competition at Easter, the Back to the Bush Annual Campdraft and Rodeo in July, the Royal Darwin Show in July, the Darwin Cup Carnival in July, the Darwin Rodeo and Country Music Concert in August, the famous Darwin Beer Can Regatta and the Festival of Darwin in August/ September. The Darwin Symphony Orchestra also performs at many special evening concerts.