Situated south-east of Tennant
Creek and north-east of Alice Springs, the Davenport Range extends for
approximately 90 km (56 miles) down the eastern side of the Northern
Territory. A biological interzone between the tropical woodland savannas
of the Top End and the arid Red Centre, it is home to an intriguing mix of
flora and fauna, and has a fascinating ancient and recent human history.
Much of the area is now protected by the Proposed Davenport Range National
Park, which encompasses 1120 sq. km (432 square miles) between the
Davenport Range and the Murchison Range. Little developed and with no
sealed roads, it offers adventurous travellers a complete wilderness
experience.
The Davenport Range is the boundary between the traditional lands of the
Warumungu, Alyawarre and Kaytetye peoples. It has yielded numerous
archaeological finds, including artifacts that indicate the presence of
another, earlier people, and several small flint quarries that date back
thousands of years.
Davenport Range National Park
The main attractions in the park for both wildlife and visitors are the
Frew River and Lenee and Whistleduck creeks. In an otherwise semiarid
environment, these waterways and their many, almost permanent waterholes
are a lifeline for a surprisingly wide range of animals, including 105
species of birds (this is a prime nesting area for budgerigars), desert
mice, antechinuses, dunnarts, spectacled hare-wallabies, northern nailtail
wallabies, black-footed wallabies, euros, kangaroos and dingoes. The
waters also support seven species of fish, and small inland crabs.
The park's main camp site is at the Old Police Station Waterhole on the
Frew River. When full, the waterhole is more than 1 km (0.6 miles) long,
about 100 m (110 yards) wide and deep enough for swimming. It only rarely
dries up, though its depth fluctuates depending on recent rainfall.
Magnificent river red gums line the banks and couch grass has spread under
the trees creating a delightful camping ground. From the comfort of your
tent, you can often observe budgerigars nesting in the hollow branches
overhead; mudlarks, crowned babblers, short-billed corellas, darters, teal
ducks, wood ducks and red-backed kingfishers also abound. Local mammals
are more reclusive, although some may be located at night with the aid of
a spotlight.
There is another developed camping ground at Whistleduck Creek and there
are two basic camp sites on the Frew River. At all these sites, swimming
is possible when the waterholes are full and you can even launch a canoe
at the Old Police Station Waterhole. There is also plenty of scope for
bushwalking, though as yet there are no marked trails. Popular outings
include following the Frew River or climbing from the Old Police Station
Waterhole to the top of the range, where you'll enjoy superb views of the
outback.
The national park is bounded by four pastoral stations and the Anurrente
Aboriginal Land Trust. Part of one of the access roads crosses the land
trust but is open to the public. Park authorities have been consulting
with the Anurrente regarding further developments in this area. The owners
of Kurundi Station, which forms the park's northern border, are currently
considering a private tourism development.
A major issue for park management has been the eradication of introduced
species, such as cats, donkeys and horses, and the removal of stock. To
this end, the northern and southern boundaries of the park have now been
fenced.
Because the Proposed Davenport Range National Park is remote and unstaffed,
visitors must be well prepared and carry all necessary supplies, first-aid
equipment and vehicle spares. The best time to visit is between March and
September when the days are pleasantly warm, the nights cool, and the
waterholes usually full. Fuel and limited food are available at Epenarra
and Kurundi homesteads.
All roads leading into the park are gravel and a high-clearance vehicle,
preferably 4WD, is recommended. There are four main points of entry. The
most-travelled route runs from Bonney Well on the Stuart Highway, 86 km
(53 miles) south of Tennant Creek, to the turn-off to Whistleduck Creek,
68 km (42 miles) to the east, and onward from there to Epenarra Station, a
total distance of 120 km (75 miles). Another route leads to Epenarra from
the Barkly Homestead Roadhouse on the Barkly Highway in Queensland, and
covers 121 km (75 miles).
From Epenarra, it is 35 km (21.5 miles) to the right-hand turn-off to the
Old Police Station Waterhole, and another 9.6 km (6 miles) to the
waterhole itself. If you remain on the main road at the turn-off and
continue for 29 km (18 miles) toward Hatches Creek, you will come to
another access road to the Old Police Station Waterhole. Though rough,
this 4WD route, known as the Frew River Loop Track, presents an enjoyable
diversion for experienced off-road drivers and should take about an hour
to negotiate. It leads to a couple of basic camp sites that will appeal to
travellers seeking solitude.
A third access road to the national park leaves the Stuart Highway 43 km
(26.5 miles) north of Barrow Creek and travels for 123 km (76 miles) via
Murray Downs Homestead to the Old Police Station Waterhole turn-off. You
can also reach the park from Alice Springs, travelling via the Stuart and
Sandover highways and then turning off at Ammaroo Station -a trip of
approximately 500 km (311 miles).
