Landmarks such as the Twelve Apostles have made South-West Victoria's coastline famous both nationally and internationally. Less well-known but just as intriguing is the coastal hinterland, which is dominated by the magnificent, rainforest-shrouded Otway Ranges. Extending north-east from Cape Otway parallel to the coast for around 80 km (50 miles) to Anglesea, the Otways start as rolling hills in the south, becoming more rugged as they extend north-east. In places, they drop sharply to the sea, forming an impressive backdrop to the spectacular Great Ocean Road.

This is one of the wettest regions in the country. Moist south-west winds fuel thick clouds that snag and break on the Otways' peaks, dumping most of their liquid cargo on the south-eastern slopes. This high level of rainfall sustains dense stands of blue and mountain grey gum, mountain and alpine ash, and myrtle beech, as well as a lush undergrowth.

The forests of the Otways were heavily logged in the early days of European settlement, but pockets of virgin forest can still be found and regeneration has been swift since large swathes of the range were incorporated in two major reserves, Otway National Park and Angahook-Lorne State Park. Visitors to both areas can view a wide array of wildlife and enjoy exhilarating hiking, camping and 4WD adventures.

The Otways are seldom dry, and winter rains sometimes result in road closures, so off-season travellers should check conditions before they set off. The region can be accessed from the Great Ocean Road, and also from the Princes Highway in the north.

Otway National Park

Covering a total of 12,900 ha (31,875 acres), Otway National Park extends approximately 60 km (37 miles) along the coast of South-West Victoria, from just west of Apollo Bay to Princetown, where it merges with Port Campbell National Park. It is divided into two sectors 'a narrow coastal strip in the west and a much broader area in the east' and encompasses a remarkable range of habitats.

At the Maits Rest picnic area, visitors can enjoy a 40-50 minute self-guided walk that provides the perfect introduction to the Otway rainforests. Along the trail, look out for animals such as red-necked and swamp wallabies, echidnas and possums. Keen-eyed twitchers may also spot satin bowerbirds and king parrots among a rich array of birds.

East of Glenaire, rivers such as the Aire and the Ford, as well as a cluster of sizeable lakes, offer tranquil waters for boating and canoeing. Platypuses and large numbers of waterbirds make their homes here. Campers can pitch a tent at the Aire River campground, which has toilets and picnic tables and is particularly popular with local canoeists.

Otway National Park's long stretch of coastline incorporates extensive walking trails. One easy but long walk begins at the Aire River camping area, follows the river and then turns south along the coastline past Point Flinders to reach the lighthouse at Cape Otway. From here, walkers can complete a circuit by following the trail that heads inland. The entire walk takes around eight hours. A shorter 'around two hours' but more challenging bushwalk starts at the Shelley Beach picnic area and heads toward the mouth of the Elliott River before looping back to its starting point via the rugged coastline.

At Wreck Beach in the west of the park, you can clamber down a steep flight of steps to view the wrecks of the Fiji and the Marie Gabrielle. Their anchors are displayed nearby. Further west, a walk from Moonlight Beach to Princetown via Pebble Point will provide glimpses of the Twelve Apostles in nearby Port Campbell National Park.

Excellent camping facilities are available near Johanna Beach and at Blanket Bay near Point Lewis; both sites have picnic tables and toilets.

Angahook-Lorne State Park

Angahook-Lorne may hold a lower status than its better-known neighbour, but it covers a much larger area. Its 21,340 ha (52,730 acres) extend from Cape Patton in the south to Aireys Inlet in the north-east and extend more than 10 km (6 miles) inland at certain points. Here, as in Otway National Park, you'll discover magnificent stands of mountain ash and other forest giants bisected by bubbling streams, impressive waterfalls and fern-filled ravines.

Among Angahook-Lorne's most enjoyable bushwalks is the moderate three-hour return journey from a picnic area outside Allenvale to Sheoak Falls, which plummet 15 m (49 feet), via dramatic Castle Rock Lookout. A shorter, easier trail departs from the Allenvale car park and follows the banks of the St George River. Along the way, walkers enjoy superb views of the ocean and nearby coastline.

Angahook-Lorne has seven coastal camp sites, many of which are suitable for caravans and camper vans, as well as numerous picnic areas.

The following trek takes you through some of the most spectacular forests in the Otways. It begins on the coast at Aireys Inlet and heads inland through Angahook-Lorne State Park to the top of the ranges before looping back downhill to Wye River on the coast. Most of the tracks described are easy 4WD routes when they are dry, but the frequent wet weather means that they can become challenging or impassable; alternative routes have therefore been given in some cases.

From the main Great Ocean Road on the north side of Aireys Inlet, take the Old Coach Road west, cross Gilbert Street and continue to Painkalac Creek. Here you reach the edge of the forest and the road turns to dirt. Continue straight ahead for just under 1 km (0.6 miles), then turn right onto a track that winds through forest and small farms for about 1.5 km (0.9 miles) to a T-junction.

Turn right onto Gentle Annie Jeep Track. When wet, this road can be slippery. After 3 km (1.9 miles), you pass a camping spot on the right, and at just over the 4-km (2.5-mile) mark you'll see the Ironbark Spur Track, also on the right. Stay on the Gentle Annie Track for another 5 km (3 miles) until it joins the Moggs Creek Track; 2 km (1.2 miles) after that, at a T-junction surrounded by forest, you reach Seaview Road, 15 km (9.3 miles) from the Great Ocean Road.

Seaview Road is a well-formed dirt road that runs along the top of the range through a wide clearing. Birds and black wallabies are often seen grazing on the broad verge. After 4 km (2.5 miles), Seaview Road joins the tarred Deans Marsh Road; turn right here onto the blacktop. (If you want to omit the next section of the trip, you can turn left onto the blacktop off Seaview Road and, at a major road junction 3 km (1.9 miles) south, turn right onto Mount Sabine Road.)

This main road leads west down the range, out of the forest and into farmland. At the 6-km (3.7-mile) mark, turn left onto Pennyroyal Station Road. Just over 2.5 km (1.6 miles) later, you arrive at a crossroads surrounded by farmland where you should turn left onto Pennyroyal Valley Road. If you miss this turn-off, you end up in Deans Marsh, but you can still get onto Pennyroyal Valley Road by turning left near the church.

Initially the valley road is good, but about 2.5 km (1.6 miles) from the crossroads the vegetation closes in and the road crosses a bridge and becomes narrower. Within 50 m (55 yards) of the bridge, turn right onto Dunse Track, which heads into soaring forest. It climbs steeply and the 7 km (4.3 miles) to the top can be hard going in the wet. Just as you get to the summit, you meet another track; veer left here and almost immediately you come to the junction with Mount Sabine Road, 37 km (23 miles) from Aireys Inlet. Turn right.

Head south on Mount Sabine Road; after about 4.5 km (2.8 miles) you come to a well-defined junction. If you want to experience the best of what the Otways have to offer, turn left here and take the Lorne-Erskine Falls road. Just over 3 km (1.9 miles) from the junction, an access road on the left leads to a car park and a short walking track to the falls. Energetic travellers can take the 2-km (1.2-mile) track that follows the Erskine River downstream to Straw Falls, the Cascades and Splitter Falls. This is a magical area, dotted with ferns, draped in moss and crowded by moisture-loving trees.

Backtrack to the Mount Sabine Road and turn left to head south along the top of the range. About 4 km (2.5 miles) south of the Erskine Falls Road junction you come to the Mount Cowley Track on your left. This leads about 1 km (0.6 miles) to the Mount Cowley fire lookout tower, which has fine views.

Back on Mount Sabine Road and just over 6 km (3.7 miles) from the tower turn-off, you come to a cleared area that was at one time the site of the Curtis Homestead, an excellent spot for camping. Less than 1 km (0.6 miles) past this site you reach Curtis Road. This track is subject to seasonal closure, so it pays to check whether it's open before you set off. If it's closed or you don't want to venture down it, stick to the Mount Sabine Road, head south for another 3.5 km (2.2 miles) from the Curtis Homestead site and turn left onto Wye River Road, a fairly good dirt road that winds downhill for 10 km (6 miles) or so to the coast.

If you do take Curtis Road, turn right at the track junction about 200 m (220 yards) from the main road. After just under 1 km (0.6 miles) you come to a gate (locked in winter), beyond which the track gets steeper and the thick scrub closes in. About 1 km (0.6 miles) further on, you reach another junction. The right-hand track is a dead end that stops just short of a cliff line and a set of waterfalls. Take the road to the left.

Another 1.5 km (0.9 miles) brings you to the site of Cumberland Station and the remains of a disused forest tramway. Adventurous bushwalkers can search here for a number of waterfalls. The closest is off to the left, just east of north, about 500 m (550 yards) away, at a line of cliffs. Another is off to the right, a little further away, at another line of cliffs.

Curtis Road continues past the tramway, dropping steeply through dense forest before levelling out. Just over 1 km (0.6 miles) later you come to another junction. Turn right here onto Cumberland Track and continue through a wet valley. After about 1 km (0.6 miles), you reach another seasonally closed gate which opens onto the Wye River Road.

The main road takes you directly to the coast; however, if you're in the mood for more challenging off-road driving turn left after 3 km (1.9 miles) onto the Jamieson Track. It passes through a gate (usually locked in winter), then heads downhill. After 1.5 km (0.9 miles), you'll see another road, the Godfrey Track, on the right. Both routes continue downhill for 3 km (1.9 miles) or so to the Great Ocean Road, the Jamieson connecting 1.5 km (0.9 miles) north of the Godfrey, which, in turn, is 1.5 km (0.9 miles) from the Wye River Road junction.