The Australian Alps stretch from eastern Victoria into southern New South Wales, forming the highest mountain chain in the Great Dividing Range, the continent's major landform. The Victorian part of the chain is often referred to as the Victorian Alps or, more colloquially, the high country. Once the realm of gold diggers and hardy cattlemen, this is now a playground for many Victorians as well as visitors from further afield, offering spectacular mountain scenery, unusual and varied wildlife and a diverse range of recreational activities. In winter, skiers flock to resorts such as Falls Creek and Mount Buller; in summer, hikers take to the trails, nature lovers come to view birds and wildflowers, and off-road enthusiasts negotiate challenging 4WD routes. Much of the Victorian Alps is now encompassed by the massive Alpine National Park, which stretches from the New South Wales border to the town of Mansfield in the west.

The weather in the Victorian Alps is ever-changing. Snow covers the upper reaches for most of the winter, while summer brings heat to the slopes and particularly the valleys. But snow can also fall in summer months, and even in the space of a day, the weather may switch from extreme heat to freezing cold. Visitors should therefore be prepared for all eventualities and always carry warm clothing as well as adequate food and water. In winter, snow and heavy rain may result in roads being closed at short notice. If travelling at this time, check with a Parks Victoria office for details of track closures before you set off.

By far the highest mountain range on a relatively flat continent, the Australian Alps form a distinctive ecological zone inhabited by specialised plants and animals, many of which are found nowhere else in the country.

The lower slopes are dominated by eucalypts such as mountain gum and stringybark, the higher slopes by alpine ash, and the area above the snowline by colourful, gnarled snow gums. During spring, as the snow melts, alpine daisies, alpine marsh marigolds and alpine hoveas blossom en masse across the range.

These variations in vegetation combined with changeable weather result in an extraordinary diversity of animal life. There are more than 200 species of birds, for example; among the most notable is the noisy gang-gang cockatoo, which migrates here to breed in summer. There are even some emus, though they are rarely spotted. The region's 40 or so mammal species include grey kangaroos, common wombats, echidnas and possums, as well as carnivorous marsupials such as the tiger quoll. They also include several alpine specialists such as the mountain pygmy possum, which was thought to be extinct until 1966 when a live specimen was found, and the now-rare brush-tailed rock-wallaby. Surprisingly, the mountains are also rich in reptiles, with more than 30 species.

One of the range's most intriguing seasonal inhabitants is the bogong moth. Millions of these large moths migrate to the Alps each year from southern Queensland and northern New South Wales to escape the summer heat. On their arrival in the mountains, they cluster in cool caves and hollows around Mount Bogong. The moths were an important food source for local Aboriginal peoples, who used to congregate here each year to feast on them.

Alpine National Park

Victoria's largest park covers a vast area of 635,580 ha (1,570,518 acres), which encompasses rugged mountains, fast-flowing rivers, huge snowfields, open plains and deep gorges that open out onto wide green valleys. Stretching across much of the range, the park forms a vital protected corridor for the region's flora and fauna.

The idea for a national park in the Australian Alps was first floated by the newly formed Victorian National Parks Association during the 1960s, but it was not until several public inquiries had been held and local people had been persuaded of the idea's merit that the Alpine National Park was finally proclaimed in December 1989.

The park can be divided into six sectors. From west to east, they are: Mount Buller-Stirling, Wonnangatta-Moroka, Mount Hotham-Feathertop, the Bogong High Plains, Wombargo-the Cobberas and Tingaringy. Most of these areas are accessible by road. Mount Buller-Stirling can be reached via Mansfield, along good gravel roads. The Wonnangatta-Moroka area is accessed via Licola, following a well-maintained gravel road, or from Dargo on 4WD tracks. Mount Hotham is serviced by a good bitumen highway 'known as the Alpine Road' which runs from Harrietville in the north and from Dargo in the south. The Bogong High Plains are located above Falls Creek at the end of the Mount Beauty Road, a continuation of the Kiewa Valley Highway. The Snowy River Road provides access to the Tingaringy section, and the Benambra and Black Mountain tracks lead into the Cobberas region.

Mount Buller-Stirling and Lake Cobbler

Located only two and a half hours' drive from Melbourne, Mount Buller and Mount Stirling stand atop the Delatite Valley, where the cool streams of the Delatite and King Rivers flow. Mount Stirling offers excellent cross-country skiing and popular walking trails, while Mount Buller caters more for downhill skiers. With many trails surrounding the two mountains and leading up to Lake Cobbler, 4WD touring and cycling are also popular pastimes here.

Wonnangatta-Moroka

This section of the park, only 335 km (208 miles) from Melbourne, is much visited and offers a wide range of walking and 4WD tracks, winter ski trails for cross-country enthusiasts, and excellent camping areas, most of which can be reached using conventional vehicles. For many visitors, the main attraction is the Wonnangatta Valley, with its lush valley floor where many pioneers settled last century.

Hidden deep in the mountains at the head of the Wellington River is one of the jewels in the High Country's crown, Lake Tali Karng, which can be viewed from the Sentinel and Echo Point on Rigalls Spur. The descent to the lake is a tough 28-km (17-mile) return trip and should be undertaken only by fit, well-prepared walkers. The trek takes two days, with one night spent camping by the sapphire lake.

Another walking track leads from the popular camping area at Horseyard Flats to dramatic Moroka Gorge, which formed over thousands of years as the Moroka River cut through the range. There are three waterfalls here and, in summer when the water level is low, excellent swimming holes.

Further east, the Moroka Road heads toward the Pinnacles Lookout. You can drive to within 1 km (0.6 miles) of the peak, then take the moderate bushwalking track to the lookout near the fire tower, from where you will enjoy breathtaking views.

Mount Hotham-Feathertop

Situated in the heart of the national park and incorporating two of the state's highest peaks, Mount Feathertop (1922 m [6306 feet]), and Mount Hotham (1862 m [6109 feet]), this sector receives abundant snowfalls and is best known for its winter sports. While ski tourers range widely across the snowfields, downhill enthusiasts head for the groomed trails of Hotham Heights. Cross-country skiers usually base themselves at nearby Dinner Plain, the more adventurous of them taking the Razorback Trail to Mount Feathertop. This 18-km (11-mile) trek can be completed in a day, though snow camping is possible near Federation Hut below the summit. Come spring, the snow melts, revealing numerous trails that are popular with hikers and cyclists alike, including parts of the Australian Alps Walking Track (see below).

Bogong High Plains

The Bogong High Plains were once an important pasture for cattle, and graziers would drive their herds up here each summer to browse on the lush plains. In the early 1900s, the area became the birthplace of skiing in Victoria and it remains popular with winter-sports enthusiasts. There are unlimited opportunities for cross-country skiers and good downhill facilities at Falls Creek. In summer, visitors can enjoy bushwalking, cycling and horse riding as well as trout fishing at the Rocky Valley Dam and Pretty Valley Pondage.

Popular walks include the moderate 5-km (3-mile) trek from the Rocky Valley Dam to Ropers Lookout, which takes one and a half hours return, or the difficult day hike along the Mount Bogong Staircase, which is 16 km (10 miles) return and for the seriously fit only. Another favourite is the return trek from the Bogong High Plains to Wallaces Hut. A picturesque, gentle walk of 2 km (1.2 miles), it takes less than an hour to complete. Built by the Wallace Brothers in 1889 and classified by the National Trust, the hut is the oldest of the historic huts still standing in the park. The woollybutt roof shingles were replaced by galvanised iron in the 1930s.

Wombargo -The Cobberas

This northern sector abuts Kosciuszko National Park to the north and the Buchan Headwaters Wilderness Area to the south. The only access road suitable for conventional vehicles, the Black Mountain Road, leads to the popular camping areas of Native Dog Flat, Willis on the Snowy River, and the Cobberas Wilderness Area.

The peaks of Mounts Cobberas One and Two are popular bases for walkers, as is Cowombat Flat, site of the wreckage of a DC-3 aircraft that crashed in 1954, killing one crew member.

Tingaringy

The highest mountain east of the Snowy River, Mount Tingaringy offers commanding views of the Kosciuszko Range and the peaks to the south, near the Snowy River. Most of this sector is classified as wilderness. At the border with New South Wales, it adjoins the Kosciuszko National Park and Byadbo Wilderness Area. Because vehicles and all other mechanical means of transport are banned, the majority of visitors are bushwalkers. They must be well prepared and self-sufficient as this is wild country and water can be scarce in summer.

Historic Huts of the High Country

Scattered throughout Alpine National Park are a number of historic huts built by pioneers who grazed cattle on the high plains during summer. These are now preserved for their historical significance, but can also be used by bushwalkers as temporary or emergency shelters. The most regularly frequented huts include Wallaces Hut on the Bogong High Plains, and Bluff, Bindaree and Craigs huts in the Mount Buller-Stirling sector. Other notable huts are Davies Hut in Wombargo -the Cobbaras and Guys Hut, off the Howitt Road, north of Licola, where you will also find the ruins of the Old Wonnangatta Station.

The Australian Alps Walking Track

By far the most impressive of the region's many walking trails is the Australian Alps Walking Track. This spectacular route extends a lengthy 650 km (404 miles) from the old goldmining town of Walhalla in Gippsland, across the Alps and through southern New South Wales, finishing in the Australian Capital Territory at the Namadgi Visitor Centre near Canberra. The track was created in 1968, before the area was declared a national park. It takes more than 10 weeks to complete the entire route, but most walkers tackle it in, or confine themselves to, short sections. Among the most popular is the section that runs from near Falls Creek to Mount Bogong, a distance of 25 km (15.5 miles).

4WD Touring

In recent years, increasing numbers of visitors have used 4WD vehicles to explore remote and otherwise inaccessible areas of the park, and a good network of suitable roads exists. One of the most popular areas is the Wonnangatta Valley. Zeka Spur Track, the road into Wonnangatta from the Howitt High Plains Road, was once a very challenging track, but it has recently been upgraded and should no longer pose a problem, even for novice drivers. An ideal weekend jaunt would be to camp on the Wellington River outside Licola on Friday night, then travel the 72 km (45 miles) north to the Zeka Spur Track, which winds downward for 30 km (19 miles) to the valley floor. It should take you three or four hours from Licola along this moderately difficult road. There are camp sites aplenty in the valley, and attractions include the remains of a burnt-out homestead on the banks of Conglomerate Creek and a cemetery perched on the hillside under towering pine trees.

Other interesting 4WD destinations within the national park include Dargo and the Crooked River, Talbotville area, Jacksons Crossing on the Snowy River, and the Deddick Trail. The more adventurous and experienced might like to tackle the Butcher Country Track or the mountain country around Davies Plain in the north. And for experienced off-roaders with time to spare, the challenging Alpine Trek runs for 423 km (263 miles) from Mansfield in the west all the way to Thredbo in New South Wales via Mirimbah, Dargo, Omeo, Sassafras Gap and Tom Groggin. Requiring at least a week, the journey takes in some of the most spectacular country in the state but also some of the roughest and toughest roads that a 4WD enthusiast is ever likely to encounter, so it's definitely not for the faint of heart.

Other Activities

The Australian Alps are premium mountain-biking country, with well-formed tracks running alongside deep river gorges, imposing clifftops, large plateaus and verdant valleys. Cyclists should, however, keep in mind that temperatures in the Australian Alps are generally lower than in the rest of the state, with the peaks rarely recording temperatures above 20¡C (68¡F), even in summer. Restrictions on cycling are in operation in some areas, so check with the park authorities before you hit the trails.

Other popular recreational activities include rafting and canoeing, particularly on the Wellington, Macalister and Snowy Rivers, and horse riding along the mountaintops, an activity that allows visitors to experience this beautiful and historic landscape from the vantage point of the early European settlers.

Camping